Los Angeles’s own master of carnitas, Romulo “Momo” Acosta, has been making Mexican confit-style pork for more than a half century: it’s a craft he began a lifetime ago in his father’s butcher shop in Salamanca, Zacatecas. Carefully managing the cooking times of various cuts slowly frying in a sweet, seasoned bath of pork fat at a low temperature, he delivers carnitas as good as you’ll find in Mexico. Order a pound of shoulder, hog maw and skin, spoon the sticky, caramel-colored mix onto a tortilla and hold the onions and cilantro — in Salamanca, a tortilla filled with carnitas and pickled chiles is the standard. — BE
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