[dropcap size=big]A[/dropcap]sada fries can be divisive, to say the least, but to those people, I say, you’re wrong. As a kid, they were in constant rotation; a tray of cheesy asada fries was a guarantee of satisfaction. So they’ll always have a special place in my soul. But for those who can’t get over their ego, Mi Ranchito Taqueria in Sylmar might help you see the light. Mi Ranchito Taquería is a lonchera that parks nearby a Bank of America and a short walk away from Tacos Mi Rincon Tapatio.
Not all asada fries are created equal. Each one has its own identity, where people get creative is in its toppings, and the combinations are endless. The asada fries from Mi Ranchito are special. They’re a revelation.
The first thing you’ll notice when you open the styrofoam box, like Vincent Vega checking the case in Pulp Fiction, is the irresistible, bright colors created by three different salsas. It starts on a bed of freshly fried papas like you’d get at a ‘hood burger joint, then handfuls of shredded Monterey Jack, a scoop of luscious frijoles de la olla, then generous portions of asada. The first salsa is a tomatillo salsa that is almost instantly absorbed into the asada and beans and creates a dark backdrop. It’s followed by an avocado salsa that creates a bright green contrast for the third salsa, a bright orange-red salsa. Then it's topped with grilled onions. In appearance alone, the vibrant striations of salsas have a shimmering effect. It looks like it belongs in an art museum.