[dropcap size=big]E[/dropcap]l Texate on 4th and Pico in Santa Monica has been serving Oaxacan food since the Marcial family opened it in 1992. Its ambiance, moles, and community life have remained consistent since then. But in the last ten years, the city has transformed around them. The number of luxury condos has gone up while family institutions like El Texate have gone down.
Recently, their position has become increasingly uncertain.
“Someone at the development office told me, ‘Don’t take it personal. It’s business. We don’t make any money off of you. We make money off big business,’” Michael Marcial shares during service. Along with his wife Hildy and staff of seven, he manages, waits tables, tends bar, and meets other day-to-day necessities. Nonetheless, he has felt the changes. “In Santa Monica, it’s hard to have a business, especially if you are family-owned.”
One block west, plans are underway to convert the Pico bowling alley, which has served the community since 1958, into a three-story, 97,455 square foot condo complex. When the building is finalized, Marcial fears, “Probably the owner of this land is gonna kick us out and build something up. Either a hotel or condominiums, whatever. It’s gonna happen. I’m not being naive about it.”