Jitlada is one of the first restaurant superstars of the Internet age, a place that captured the imagination and attention of many a food blogger back when blogs were more popular than Instagramming or Tweetstorming. That Jitlada has remained in the zeitgeist of the city’s dining culture between then and now is a testament to how canonical it has become, and its ascendancy to that place can be traced to 2007, when brother-and-sister duo Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkamee and Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong took over Jitlada and appended their Southern Thai specialties to the existing menu. The buzz began slowly but surely online, and soon enough, Jitlada’s rice salad, fried morning glory, fried turmeric sea bass, and green mussel curry became as mandatory Los Angeles experiences as a trip to Griffith Observatory and being stuck in traffic alongside Angelyne. Sadly, the country lost a great when Sungkamee passed last year. Rest in peace, Tui. — TN
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