
I thought I had my mind made up before embarking on a self-guided pizza tour from Main St. to Abbot Kinney, convinced I already knew the exact standing I’d put Bravo Pizzeria, Dagwood’s, Wildflour, and Abbot Kinney Pizza Co. in, having dipped my ‘buds into their pie so often. What I found under the TACO-scope shocked and awed me to be sure!
The SoCal pizza I grew up on was excellent as far as I can muster any memories past last night. But I can’t play deaf to the volumes of criticism that we don’t have a good slice in this region. I spent many years in New York’s Lower East Side as a broke vegetarian, gobbling up pizza the way Rush Limbaugh downed Oxys. While a slice at your typical random spot went from shitty to divine, it is undeniable that those East Coasters know what they’re doing with pizza (”It’s the wata, the wata!”). At Gotham’s truest and best pizzerias, –Lombardi’s, Grimaldi’s, Totonno’s, Isabella’s, DiFara’s, Franny’s, and Patsy’s– there is a craft and dedication to pizza that knows no equal out West, as far as I’ve tasted. And weighing in at 413 lbs., I have tried them all. Except Hollywood’s Mozza. If anyone wants to take me, I promise I have excellent tableside manners (I’m talking to you, Ms. Kunis).

#1. Bravo Pizzeria ~ 2400 Main St. Santa Monica, CA 90405
First stop was Bravo Pizzeria, the only local to be knighted with a “pizzeria” title. Bravo busts a real New York pedigree, with amiable owner Peter being a co-owner of Ferrara’s, a famous centurion bakery with its start in Little Italy. He and his bro have a couple of places on the wesssside. Bravo gets a gold star for having actual Italian-American fare, like top-notch cannolis, regularly flown in from NYC, as well as the kinds of subs and pastas you would find at a red-checker tablecloth spot in the old neighborhood. It’s a true Cali spot, you can tell the tatted-up servers here know how to duck-dive.

Bravo’s pizza racks up points for a tasty, unique sauce with deep herbal notes,and a thin cheese layer of perfect consistency. It is an ideal hybrid between the comfort of our contemporary slice and an old world thin-crust pie, with the basics loosely toppled together, creating a delicious, soft mixture in the slice. The crust is rustic, fragile, and crisp, with any doughy pieces airy and easily chewable, making it entirely crushable to the end. This damn good slice pays homage to the heritage of pizza while standing along and above modern competition. But Bravo really excels over its neighbors with great ingredients and a dedication to freshness. A slice with onions and peppers burst with the pent-up juices of ripe fruit, making my chin a little wet.

My favorite house-specialty is the “Cheese Explosion,” a medley of creamy ricotta, house-smoked mozzarella, fontina, aged pecorino, farm-fresh spinach, and little nubs of raw garlic that by design or accident get stuffed with cheese. This results in an ofay slice inundated with flavor and warmth, hurtling past your typical slap-dash, white cheese triangle. Bravo, Bravo Pizzeria!!


#2. Dagwood’s ~ 202 Main St. Venice, CA 90291
Dagwood’s is the local pizza joint that seems most like a chain, just a few steps up from Chuck E. Cheese in decor, with its loud yellow walls and groovy sign. Indeed it has a few outlets in L.A. Perhaps it might surprise people that, for my money, Dagwood’s has the best plain slice in town. It is perfectly reminiscent of the best shop slices I had while drunk and stumbling home at 4AM in New York. Also, the environment makes me feel like a kid in a pizza parlor, without a stand-up version of Double Dragon to munch my quarters, but you can read the Onion and watch TV. The staff, some of whom are heirs to Dagwood’s throne, are generally cool, young, and perky, good-looking kids who’d look comfortable in the sand themselves.

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